Trails Farther from the Casitas …
Mineral Creek Trail (FT201), Cooney's Tomb, and Cooney Mining Camp
Moderate Hike of 4 hours to all day; 70-minute drive from Casitas
Alma is a small community about 6 miles north of the town of Glenwood on US 180, and some 36 miles north of Casitas de Gila Guesthouses. From "downtown" Alma, county-maintained Mineral Creek Road extends about 6 miles east into the Gila National Forest (FR701) to dead-end at the Mineral Creek Trailhead (FT201). We think that the Mineral Creek Trail is one of the most spectacular, easily-accessible half-day hikes in Southern New Mexico. The trail closely follows the creek bed of Mineral Creek canyon, a magnificent narrow gorge lined with shear, 1000 to 1500 foot towering cliffs of yellow, orange, pink, red, white, and dark-colored volcanic lava and ash flows. The trail ranges from easy to moderate difficulty, depending upon the amount of water flowing in the creek.
Mineral Creek takes its name from the extensive mining that took place here beginning in the 1870s when Captain James Cooney mustered out of the U.S. Army and began mining gold from veins he had discovered while chasing Apaches just after the Civil War. Cooney's discovery brought others, and soon the bustling mining camp of Cooney had grown to several hundred souls seeking their fortune about a mile and a half up the canyon from today's trailhead.
The story of how Captain Cooney was killed by the Apache chief Victorio and his band in 1880, and then buried by his brother and fellow miners in a tomb blasted out of a huge boulder (which can still be visited near the trailhead by the side of the road) is a marvelous saga of local history.
Mining flourished in Cooney after Geronimo's surrender in 1886, but the camp's days were soon drawing to a close for other reasons. Around the time of Cooney's death, even richer veins of gold and silver were being discovered along Silver Creek, just over the ridge to the south, leading to the development of the rip-roaring mining town of Mogollon and the eventual abandonment of the Cooney Camp after a series of devastating floods on Mineral Creek around the turn of the century.
Today, only a few remnants of Cooney remain: a few foundations here, an old outhouse there, a few wooden shacks, a 100-year-old apple orchard, and scattered bits and pieces of equipment around the abandoned mines. But if you sit quietly under that huge apple tree or under one of the nearby ponderosa pines and close your eyes, the essence of Cooney and the spirits of those ever-toiling hardy souls are still there. You will love it!
Catwalk and Whitewater Creek Trail (FT207)
Easy Hike of 1 hour to all day; 50-minute drive from Casitas
The Catwalk National Recreation Area offers all levels of hikers an excellent half to full day outing in the spectacular Mogollon Mountains. Located about 35 miles north of Casitas de Gila Guesthouses, the site is reached by taking US 180 north to the gown of Glenwood, and then turning right onto NM174 for 6 miles to its end in the Gila National Forest.
The Catwalk was developed in the 1930s as a Civilian Conservation Corps public works project. It takes its name from a metal walkway that was constructed for servicing an 18-inch iron pipe installed up Whitewater Creek gorge to supply water to an early 1900s mineral processing mill. Portions of the old pipeline still can be seen along the trail; however, no trace of the mill exists. Visitors to the Catwalk will find it an easily traversed, well-maintained hiking trail, extending up a strikingly beautiful narrow gorge filled with giant boulders, waterfalls and shady, quiet pools.
Whitewater Creek canyon is similar to the Mineral Creek canyon in that the canyon walls rise sheer and precipitously many hundreds of feet upward through complex layers of colorful volcanic rocks.
Recent improvements and additions have made the first half-mile of the trail easily accessible for the handicapped and for wheelchairs. A large portion of the trail is over an elevated metal walkway attached to the sheer walls of the gorge, providing a unique bird's-eye view of Whitewater Creek churning 20 to 30 feet below.
The Catwalk portion of the trail is just over a mile in length. For the more dedicated hiker who appreciates high-country solutide and a full-day, physically-demanding journey, the Whitewater Creek Trail (FT207) continues from the end of the Catwalk Trail for many miles up the creek to eventually link with other National Forest trails for access to the higher and more remote regions of the Gila Wilderness.
Mogollon Ghost Town and a Hike Up Graveyard Gulch
Easy Hike of 1 to 2 hours; 70-minute drive from Casitas
With the discovery of even richer veins of ore on Silver Creek in the late 1800s, just over the ridge south of Cooney Camp on Mineral Creek (see Mineral Creek Trail FT201 above) one of the West's wildest and richest mining towns was born. In its heyday Mogollon boasted a population of some 3,000 to 6,000 souls and, because of its isolation, was truly one of the wildest, shoot-'em-up mining towns in the West. Mining continued up to the 1950s and resumed for a short time in the 1970s before coming to a halt.
Today, Mogollon is an interesting ghost town comprised of old wooden buildings and nearby mining sites with only a handful of hardy year-round residents. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays between May and October, visitors to Mogollon will find a mining museum, antique store, and small cafe open for business.
The Graveyard Gulch hike is short in distance but long in history. Beginning at the old school house at the north end of the main street in Mogollon, a rough gravel road leads north 1-1/4 miles up Graveyard Gulch into the hills to end, as you might guess, at the old Mogollon graveyard. The road is rough, steep and in places passes over broken bedrock. While the road can be driven in a high-clearance vehicle, it is much better to make the pilgrimage on foot where the essence of this remarkable place will surely seep in your soul.
The hike up Graveyard Gulch is truly a time-warp hike. After passing a few buildings and evidence of modern civilization at the start of the hike, you are quickly transported into another era as you pass by old mine workings, tumbled-down miner's shacks and assorted decaying artifacts of human toil and struggle. After climbing a half a mile or so, a view back to the south down the canyon gives a good perspective of how Mogollon appeared in its former glory days. Towards the end of the hike the road becomes steeper and quite rocky before reaching a flat area covered with sparse trees and vegetation and red soil surrounding the overgrown fenced graveyard.
To wander through this old graveyard with its ornate to primitively-fashioned headstones and grave markers, poignant epitaphs, and cast iron family plot fences is to relive the history of Mogollon: young men struck down in their prime in the underground mines, babies dying in infancy, whole families wiped out by the Spanish flu. While there are many longer and spectacular hikes in the Gila, perhaps none will linger longer than your short trip up Graveyard Gulch.
Ascent of Whitewater Baldy and Crest Trail (FT182)
Moderate to Strenuous Hike of 6 to 9 hours; 2-hour drive from Casitas
The Whitewater Baldy and Crest Trail is a full-day, moderately difficult, 12-mile round trip hike through some of the highest portions of the Mogollon Range, including an ascent of Whitewater Baldy, the highest peak in the Gila Wilderness at 10,895 feet. This Gila Wilderness trail is for the more experienced and well-seasoned hiker who wants to savor the high country, yet be able to reflect on it while sitting in the hot tub at Casitas de Gila Guesthouses at the end of the day!
The journey from Casitas de Gila to the trailhead for this exceptional hike makes for a scenic and rewarding trip in itself. Follow US 180 for about 40 miles north of the Gila/Cliff area, going through Glenwood, and turn right onto NM 159 (locally-known as the Bursum Road). Follow NM 159 for about 31 miles to the Sandy Point Trailhead. Shortly after leaving US 180, Bursum Road rises steeply into the Mogollon Range and the Gila National Forest. Although narrow, steep, and full of hairpin switchbacks, the road is paved for the first 9 miles, until you reach the old mining town of Mogollon.
From Mogollon on, Bursum Road becomes an improved gravel/dirt road that is followed another 9 miles to the Sandy Point Trailhead at 9,132 feet. At the Sandy Point parking area two trails beckon. Heading north, FT202 heads down into Mineral Creek Canyon to intersect with FT201.
For the Crest Trail and the ascent of Whitewater Baldy, however, you will want to cross to the other side of Bursum Road, directly across from the parking area, where you will find the trailhead for FT182, the Crest Trail, which leads south, climbing steadily up through ponderosa pine and Douglas fir, with patches of mountain aspen marking the passage of old forest fires. This is true alpine country hiking, complete with mountain meadows, small springs, and great vistas, culminating with the ascent of Whitewater Baldy, the highest point in the Gila Wilderness.
Gila Cliff Dwellings Loop Trail and West Fork of the Gila Trail (FT151)
A Hike through History to Grudging's Grave and a Remote Cliff Dwelling
Easy to Moderate Hike of 1 hour for Cliff Dwellings Loop and 3 hours for FT151; 2-hour drive from Casitas
The Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, located about 40 miles north of Silver City in the heart of the Gila Wilderness at the end of SR 15, is a favorite full-day outing for guests staying at Casitas de Gila Guesthouses and Art Gallery. A visit to the Cliff Dwellings Monument offers the opportunity for an easy, one-mile self-guided nature hike along the Cliff Dweller Canyon Loop Trail to visit the Gila Cliff Dwellings. Then, if desired, an additional easy 6-mile round-trip hike can be made up and back down the rugged canyon of the West Fork of the Gila River, visiting an interesting pioneer homestead grave and a prehistoric Native American dwelling site along the way.
The Gilf Cliff Dwellings offer a rare chance to part the veils of time and observe a bit of the lifestyle of the Mogollon Culture of Native Americans who inhabited the Gila region around 1300 AD. The Cliff Dwellings complex is fairly extensive, and some of the numerous mud and stone structures display multi-storied architecture. The structures are very well preserved and nicely situated in a series of sandstone caves about 150 feet above the floor of a small but beautiful little canyon with a small running stream.
After a visit to the Gila Cliff Dwellings, an easy 3-mile hike up the West Fork of the Gila Trail (FT151) can be made starting from the trailhead nearby. This will allow you to further appreciate some of the geology and beautiful rugged canyon characteristics of the interior part of the Gila Wilderness. This short hike will also take you by the pioneer homestead of William Grudging who, as his tombstone relates, on October 8, 1883, was "waylayed and murdered by Tom Wood". The circumstances surrounding this murder make for an interesting investigation into the prioneer history of the area after your return to the Casitas. The turn-around point for the 3-mile hike up the canyon is another small and remote cliff dwellings near a large cave on the west side of the river. These sites offer much for the visitor to ponder on the 3-mile return hike down the canyon.
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